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Features: |
Light Weight Design
Brushed Aluminum Finish
Tool-less assembly / disassembly
Dual USB ports at the front of case for easy access.
Ventilation for the motherboard and hard drive.
Slide out motherboard tray.
Azure Acrylic Door with Fog Tint
Price:
$199 USD
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| Specification: |
Dimension (WxHxD): 196 x 452 x 520 mm
M/B Type: Standard ATX Mainboard
Weight: Case: 6.5 kg
Expansion Slots: 7
Material: All Aluminum Alloy & Acrylic
5.25" Drive Bay: 4 ( Exposed )
USB Port: Dual USB Ports
3.5" Drive Bay: 2 ( Exposed ) ; 4 ( Shadow )
I/O Bracket: Standard
ATX P/S: Optional power supply unit 300 / 400 W / PS2
redundant
Cooling: One 80 x 80 x 25 mm fan attached top panel (
Exhaust )
Cooling: One 80 x 80 x 25 mm fan attached back panel (
Exhaust )
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The CoolerMaster ATC 210c AX2 is
made of durable aluminum alloy and acrylic. The azure blue paneling
on the front of the case as well as the door is made of acrylic.
The Brushed Aluminum exterior of the case is enforced by the
aluminum alloy. Brushed aluminum has an added bonus: when the
case is scratched it blends in perfectly with the aluminum making
most scratches invisible to the naked eye. Also, unlike paint,
brushed aluminum does not chip or peel away making the case
much more durable for LAN events, excessive travelling, or normal
wear and tear.
Another benefit of the aluminum construction is weight. The
CoolerMaster case weighs a mere 14 lbs (6.5 kg) compared to
the Antec SX1040 which weighs 31 lbs (14.1 kg). CoolerMaster
generally does not include a power supply with their cases.
A typical power supply would add 3-5 lbs (1-3 kg) of weight
to the case. Even with the added weight of a power supply the
ATC 210 is much easier to transport. If you do a lot of travelling
with your tower aluminum is definitely the way to go.
The
inside of the case is very spacious and is well thought out.
CoolerMaster touts the cooling properties of the case above
all. While aluminum does aid in keeping things cool there is
no difference between a aluminum case and a standard case when
the computer is powered on long enough for the temperature to
stabilize inside the chassis. Two fans (one at the rear below
the power supply housing and the other at the top of the case)
are included to help with air flow: The motherboard tray slides
out for easy maintenance to the motherboard. Screw
clips are fastened to the inside of the tray in any of the pre-drilled
holes. Once you align your motherboard up with the holes you
can customize where you would like to fasten the motherboard
to the tray. While such a system is easy to use and implement,
further down the road when you upgrade your motherboard you're
always losing a clip or two--be sure to store the extra clips
in a safe place or else you'll find yourself ordering a few
spare ones down the road.
The
outside of the case is mostly fastened with thumb screws. This
small addition saves quite a bit of time when you are opening
and closing
your case.
A standard speaker at the bottom of the case is
standard as it is with most cases.

Four rubber feet protect the case bottom from scratching against
the ground. Several holes have been made in the bottom of the
case to allow sound from the speaker to be heard more clearly.
The front of the case is protected by the acrylic door. The
door is often considered to be made out of glass but the acrylic
is much more durable while fooling the viewer.
The 2 in the AX2 denotes that the door is fogged unlike the
AX which is clear. The AX case allows anyone to see the ugly
beige drives behind the clear door. The fogged door, on the
other hand, conceals (for the most part) the drive bays.
A great deal of attention has gone to every aspect of this case.
You'd be hard pressed to find a better constructed case.
Two external front USB ports lie in the front of the case behind
the fogged Azure door. The USB cable is pre-attached to the
ports for easy integration with the motherboard.
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A close-up of the Y.S. Tech Fans that
is included with the case. The fan is rated at 22.5
dB but it doesn't seem noticeably loud; most likely
because the two case fans get drowned out by the CPU
fan. Vantec and Panaflo each make fans that push the
same amount of air but are a lot quieter. If noise
is a concern for you I would sell the standard fans
and get fans that don't make as much noise. Nowadays,
with CPU fans being in the 60 dB range, it would be
wise to modify your CPU fan first since it is by far
the loudest component in your case. |
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Here are the fan specs:
MODEL |
Bearing |
Operating
Voltage Range (VDC) |
Power
Consumption (W) |
Rated
Speed (RPM) |
FD1281253S-1N |
S |
7~16 |
1.20 |
1,900 |
Max. Airflow
(CFM) |
Max.
Static Pressure
(mm-H2O) |
Noise
Level (dB(A)) |
Life (hour) |
Weight (g) |
27.90 |
1.30 |
22.5 |
30,000 |
88 |
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The top fan is a welcome addition to
the case. Very few cases come with one pre-installed.
The fan is situated rather close to the power supply.
I found no difficulties with any of the power supplies
that I used with the case but it might pose a problem
if your power supply is an unusual size. |
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CoolerMaster is kind enough to include fan guards
on both of the case fans. It's relatively easy to
hit a blade if you open the case while the fan is
still rotating. |
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The rear fan is helps improve the air flow in the
case. In my opinion a third fan in the front of the
case would be ideal to help cool the front drives.
Unfortunately, no such fan is included. |
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The top fan pushes all of the hot air
out of the case. It can also be adjusted to bring
cold air into the case. Since hot air rises it is
ideal to have the top fan push the air out instead
of inside. It is a little bit harder to unscrew and
clean the top fan due to its positioning inside the
case. |
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The back of the case offers ample room
for all of your cards. CoolerMaster gives you thumbscrews
even for your PCI / AGP / ISA cards. I've removed
two of the plates covering the slots so you can get
a feel for the depth of the case. |
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The wiring from the Power / Reset switch
and of the LED connects from the front of the case
to the motherboard. There are also two built in USB
ports and the connecting wires. |
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The acrylic paneling extends to the
side of the case. The side panels tuck underneath
the acrylic for proper fastening. |
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The blue LED of the ATC-210 offers a
subtle touch of beauty to the case. It's soft glow
greatly accents the Azure window and the acrylic side
paneling. I've included two pictures, one with the
door closed and the other with the door open to give
you an idea of what the LED looks like. |
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The metal drive bays can hold four 5.25"
drives and two 3.5" drives. The drives are mounted
with standard screws and can be easily adjusted. |
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The motherboard has now been installed
and there is plenty of room for the drives. The wire
at the bottom (white) is the front USB port connector. |
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The clustered mess to the left is my
system right after install to give you an idea of
how well the components fit in the case. You can see
that the case offers quite a bit of room even with
all of the wires everywhere. |
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No product is without shortcomings.
For the ATC-210 most of the problems are found in
the side panels. Unlike the Antec SX1040, removing
the side case panels is quite a chore. Several metal
hooks secure into matching holes on the case. This
assures that the paneling is securely fastened to
the case but makes it a pain when removing or fastening
the panels. |
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Often I found myself spending a couple minutes trying
to get the panels on/off properly; most computer cases
that I've dealt with take 15-30 seconds MAX. I found
that one of the panels was particularly hard to move
since it wasn't properly clearing the top of the case
and would rub against the aluminum. |
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I found that loosening this screw would
make it much easier to remove / fasten the side panel.
After going through the trouble of removing the screw
it it would still take longer than I would have liked
to remove and put on the side panels. If your CoolerMaster
ATC-210 Case has the same problem I recommend using
a thumbscrew instead of a standard case screw for
easy fastening / unfastening. |
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The second problem is the case door.
The metal door hinges rub against the case and cause
brown and black marks on the aluminum hinges. An easy
mod to fix this would be to apply a silver colored
piece of tape to the door to stop the rubbing and
marking. |
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The black marks in this picture are
also caused by the door and the case rubbing against
each other. It surprises me that CoolerMaster didn't
use a better solution (such as a rubber stopper) instead
of aluminum to stop the marking. However, the marks
are not noticeable when the case door is closed and
only slightly noticeable when it is opened. If you
were to clean the hinges, most of the marks would
likely come off. |
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The ATC-210c AX2 exudes class. CoolerMaster has delivered an outstanding
case that is as well-built as it is stunning.
There are, however, a few annoyances with this case which do count
against its final rating. Even with those minor flaws this case
still borders on perfection (and for $200 USD it better).
Overall, I highly recommended this case to anyone who is looking
for more than a generic chassis. It definitely beats having a
standard beige case (or a black case for that matter).
CoolerMaster has further extended the ATC 2xx line to include
a windowed version (ATC 210b) and the forthcoming ATC 220 which
has a window and "magic light Reflection at front bezel."
The new additions to the ATC 2xx are likely to push the 210 pricing
a little bit lower.
Highly Recommended.
Overall Score:
Style: 10
Durability: 9.5
Cooling / Noise: 9.5
Misc. Features: 9.0
Total: 9.5
Article Home: http://esheep.org/reviews-coolermaster-atc210c-1.html
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